Comfort stretch, Japanese-inspired fabrics and nods to ’90s grunge were everywhere at Kingpins New York. 

Artistic Denim Mills (ADM) continues to scale its production of certified and traceable recycled cotton through its strategic partnership with Spanish material sciences company Recover Textile Systems, S.L.  Fabric Cotton

The Karachi, Pakistan-based mill presented zero virgin cotton fabrics comprised of 60 percent Tencel and 20 percent recycled Recover cotton. 

Clients are warming up to the idea of cotton-free denim. The goal, said Mubashir Shakoor, ADM’s marketing manager, is to make the fabrics as commercial as possible to have the biggest positive impact on the environment. In “most cases,” Shakoor said recycled cotton fabrics are cost neutral compared to fabrics made with virgin components. 

Artistic Milliners promoted its mechanically recycled Tencel lyocell. The Pakistan company is the first to produce the circular fiber, now cranking out up to 10,000 meters of it at its fiber recycling facility, Circular Park. The result is a range of fabrics with a vintage, uneven and neppy appearance, but still carrying the soft hand feel of a Tencel fabric. 

Artistic Fabric Mills, which is investing in a long-term organic cotton farming project in Pakistan in collaboration with the WWF, remains focused on recycling. The mill presented fabrics made with 100 percent post-industrial cotton waste (PIW).   Related Story Denim Kingpins New York Preview: New to Market

Mexico’s Kaltex touted the Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) certification it received six months ago to assure clients of its sustainability claims. Approximately 90 percent of its styles are RCS certified.

PIW is the mill’s recycled fiber of choice for its ability to control the sorting process. Jack Mathews, Kaltex America senior vice president of denim, described how the fibers are collected from the cutting room, put through a grinding process and blended with virgin cotton to make warp yarns. Since the yarns contain indigo-dyed recycled content, they require less dye and chemicals in their new state, he added. 

The Lycra Company launched Lycra lastingFIT 2.0 technology to “deliver elevated functionality in sustainable fiber made from recycled fibers.” Benefits include a range of stretch levels, long-lasting recovery, a soft hand and an authentic denim look. The technology is also designed to extend the life of a garment by providing durability. 

“Consumers are concerned about reducing their environmental footprint and are increasingly investing in higher quality, more durable garments,” said Ebru Ozaydin, The Lycra Company’s strategic marketing director, denim and ready-to-wear. 

Lycra teamed with Naveena Denim and Sapphire Finishing to showcase Lycra lastingFIT 2.0 technology in garments based on utility-meets-outdoor fashion trends. 

The connection between comfort, weave constructions and fiber blends deepen in Spring/Summer 2024 collections.

Though there’s still a business in rigid, Mathews said comfort stretch fabrications are Kaltex’s bread and butter. Clients with a strong men’s business are especially loyal to fabrics that combine the authentic and marbled appearance of tried-and-true blue jeans with ease of movement. 

Global Denim bowed its first fabrics made with 30 percent to 70 percent hemp. The mill plans to add more variations of hemp fibers in future collection based on positive feedback from clients. ADM is using up to 20 percent hemp in fabrics as well as linen. The fabrics are examples of the various ways brands can offer comfort to the end user, Shakoor said. 

Steel Wire Rope NDL’s Swift N Sway range uses Tencel, Refibra and hemp—no petroleum-based fibers—to enhance year-round wearability. The mill also offered an ultra-lightweight range of 3 oz. fabrics in indigo and sulfur black.